A jewel in the Utah desert

July 11, 2017

The following is an article written by Lucia van der Post of the Financial Times from her guided travels with Kevin Jackson through the Southwest. 


Those of us who love America and who like to venture beyond the safe and sophisticated enclaves on the east and west coasts are sometimes bewildered at just how disappointing the daily fare turns out to be. Not that malnutrition is a danger — the problem is that when it comes to food there is far too much of it, but at the same time too little of it is of any real quality. So imagine our surprise when one hot autumn evening, in the depths of Utah, as remote and far-removed from urbane metropolises as it is possible to be, we came upon a restaurant so full of edible delights that it could hold its head up among London’s finest. We were on our way from Lake Powell to Zion National Park with our guide, Kevin Jackson of EXP Journeys. Shon Foster, who used to be head chef at the Amangiri hotel, had recently opened his own venture and it seemed to us like a little culinary heaven. There is nothing poncey or over-elaborate about what he cooks. He believes that food should connect us to where we are, and where we have been, and so he homes in on locally grown ingredients — finest beef, homegrown vegetables. He offers lots of plates to share — a terrific meat and cheese board (homemade pastrami, jamon, brown butter figs, spicy peach chutney, Utah Gruyère, Brie and toasts). Above all, don’t miss out on the pork belly served with watermelon. I know it doesn’t sound great, but it was one of those surprises that just worked. Our meal cost us just under $60 a head — a bargain. So, it is a little jewel, as anybody who has visited that part of the US and had their fill of indifferent food will recognise.

Sego, Kanab (segokanab.com)

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